The Activefabrics Fabric Glossary

Abrasion resistance
The abrasion resistance of fabrics is measured using the Martindale method. Wear of a fabric is simulated by rubbing a sample of the test fabric against a standard wool fabric. The result is measured in so-called rub cycles. The higher the number of cycles, the more abrasion-resistant a fabric is.
10,000 rub cycles: for private households, light use
15,000 rub cycles: for private households, regular use
20,000 rub cycles: for public environments, regular use
30,000 rub cycles: for public environments with intensive use
40,000 rub cycles: for public environments, very heavy use

Acetate:
Acetate is produced from natural raw materials (cotton) using a dry-spinning process. Acetate is also known as cupro silk or artificial silk. Unlike fully synthetic polyester (made from petroleum), acetate can absorb moisture and release it back into the environment. Garments made from acetate are breathable, easy to care for, and wrinkle-resistant.

Breathability
Breathability refers to a fabric’s ability to allow water vapor to escape. The RET value (Resistance to Evaporating Heat Transfer) indicates how resistant a fabric is to water vapor. The lower the RET value, the better the breathability.

RET 0-6: extremely breathable

RET 6-13: highly breathable

RET 13-20: satisfactorily breathable

RET 20 +: unsatisfactory water vapor permeability

Boiled wool / fulling
Fulled fabrics are woven textiles whose surface is felted through fulling (pushing, compressing, and pressing in warm, acidic baths).

Changeant / Iridescent
Iridescent fabrics change their appearance depending on the incidence of light and viewing angle due to differently colored threads in the warp and weft directions.

Coating When coating fabrics, a plastic layer is applied to a textile base material in order to change the properties of the carrier material (e.g. waterproofness, abrasion resistance, feel, etc.). Common coatings include PVC, acrylic, and TPU coatings.

Coolmax®
Coolmax® fabrics are known for their optimal moisture transport and excellent breathability thanks to their special fiber structure. Moisture (sweat, water vapor) is transported to the surface of the fabric, where it can evaporate particularly quickly. Coolmax® fabrics keep you cool, dry quickly, are breathable, lightweight, and machine washable.

Cordura®
Cordura® is an especially durable and abrasion-resistant polyamide fabric. During the production of Cordura®, cut polyamide fibers are respun and then woven together.

Damask
Damask is a fabric with woven-in patterns. The pattern is usually created by alternating different satin weaves.

Denim
Durable jeans fabric in twill weave

dtex
The tex value determines the fineness of fibers and yarns (mtex, dtex, ktex). The higher the tex number, the coarser the yarn or fiber.

Elastane
Elastane is a collective term for elastic threads that provide woven and knitted fabrics with elasticity and recovery properties. Fabrics containing elastane are also less prone to wrinkling.

EN471 / EN ISO 20471
European standard for fluorescent colors.

Functional Fabric / Functional Textile
Functional textiles are fabrics, woven materials, or knitted fabrics with added functional benefits (e.g. windproof, waterproof, breathable, temperature-regulating, dirt-repellent, elastic, easy-care, warming/cooling).

Gabardine
Gabardine is a particularly smooth, dense fabric with a steep diagonal pattern created by the twill weave.

Gore-Tex®
Gore-Tex® is the trademark of W. L. Gore & Associates. Under this brand, membrane fabrics with climate membranes are produced, which are ideal for all kinds of outdoor clothing due to their windproof, waterproof, and breathable properties.

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Indanthrene® Dyeing
Indanthrene is a synthetically produced dye. Fabrics dyed with indanthrene dyes have excellent fastness to washing, boiling, light, weather, and chlorine.

Jacquard
Jacquards are fabrics with elaborately woven-in patterns.

kbA & kbT
kbA stands for controlled organic farming. In kbA, the use of chemical fertilizers, defoliants, and synthetic pesticides is prohibited. In addition, the soil must have been cultivated without chemicals for three years. Cultivation is carried out in mixed cropping and crop rotation. The untreated cotton therefore has a very low allergy potential and is gentle on the skin.

kbT stands for controlled organic animal husbandry. It is always indicated when the wool comes from animals raised organically and kept in a species-appropriate way in harmony with nature.

Loden
Loden are durable wool fabrics. Loden is often further processed into boiled wool (see “boiled wool”).

Microfiber
Microfiber is a collective term for fibers with a fineness of less than 1 dtex.
Cotton: 1.5 – 2.5 dtex
Virgin wool: 3–6 dtex

Nonwoven fabric
Nonwoven fabrics are materials made from bonded fibres. Nonwovens are mostly used as insulating or padding materials.

Nylon
Nylon is the trade name for a synthetic fiber made of polyamide.

OEKO-TEX®
OEKO-TEX® is a testing and certification system for fibers, yarns, fabrics, and textile end products.
OEKO-TEX® Standard 100: tested for harmful substances
OEKO-TEX® Standard 1000: environmentally friendly production facility
OEKO-TEX® Standard 100plus: products tested for harmful substances from environmentally friendly production.

Piqué
Piqué is a fabric with alternating raised and recessed areas.

PVC coating
Plastic layer on the back side of the fabric that changes the properties of the material (waterproofness, windproofness).

Quilt
A quilt is a versatile decorative blanket that usually consists of three layers: top layer, middle layer (fleece, wool, synthetic material), and bottom layer.

Ripstop
Ripstop fabrics are woven using a special technique and are particularly tear-resistant. At regular intervals, slightly thicker threads are integrated into the otherwise finer weave, creating a grid-like structure. This results in a very good stability ratio and high tear propagation resistance.

Softshell usually consists of two or three laminated fabric layers. The outer layer is typically made of a durable material that sits above the inner climate membrane. The membrane is an ultra-thin vapor-permeable film that makes the textile windproof, waterproof, and breathable. The inner layer is usually a lining fabric (micro fleece, teddy).

Taffeta
Taffeta is a shiny, smooth fabric made of silk or synthetic fibers, most commonly used for lining garments.

Teddy
Plush fabric with long, upright pile.

TPU
TPU stands for “thermoplastic polyurethane” – a plastic that can be plastically shaped when exposed to heat.

Twill weave
The twill weave (also called Köper) is a basic weave structure for woven fabrics. The most well-known fabric in twill weave is denim. Twill weaves can be recognized by their diagonal ribs.

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Vichy check
A Vichy check is a two-colour, block-like check pattern with a square appearance.

Woven fur
Woven furs are woven imitation fur materials.

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Z-liner
A Z-liner is a layer located between the outer fabric and the lining of a garment. Membranes or membrane fabrics are typically used as Z-liners.